
“Where the Sam Hill is everybody?!?”
Well, we’ve made it to New York City and Christine’s cousin’s apartment! We’re officially finished with our time in India and I have to say, as fun as it might sound to be in a giant country’s giant capitol city for their Independence Day…if you only have one day in said capitol, do your darndest to avoid it in Delhi, India.
We had hoped for a leisurely day of sightseeing a museum or two, and Mahatma Gandhi’s memorial site…but every single thing was closed. We had looked for restaurants for lunch around noon, but everything was locked and barred. The streets were almost empty, and it in no way felt like India’s second most populated city (although if you’ll recall our feelings about socializing from the end of my previous post, this was definitely a positive). A turbaned Sikh rickshaw driver told us as we were walking to the Gandhi memorial that he was positive it was closed, but we had been told back at the hotel that it should be open. “I will take you there myself,” he replied “if it is open, then no charge for my driving you. If it is closed, then 20 rupees.” Well, it only took 45 seconds and it was probably the easiest 20 he’d made in a while.

This is, unfortunately, the closest we got to the main thing we came to Delhi to see
He did, however, tell us what would be open – the fabulous Gundawara Sikh Temple, and at no charge, too. “80 rupees, or 50 if you’ll just stop by my friend’s shop…” This is a common strategy in India. Stores will give rickshaw or taxi drivers either a commission or a fuel voucher for bringing tourists to them, but in least at Delhi with us, the drivers were upfront with us that they were willing to pass the cost savings onto you if you had the time to spare. And he knew we probably did, because everything was closed.
So that’s how we ended up at a huge rug store, run by a Muslim in a long white robe who literally danced with happiness when he saw us. “My name is Happy!” he proclaimed, then twirled on one foot and snapped his fingers in the air. “Please my friends, enjoy a cup of tea with me while we show you the finest silks in Delhi!” He danced all over a pile of rugs that his employees spread on the floor for us, and we let him talk to us for 10 minutes when we politely found a way to excuse ourselves and get back out to our waiting Sikh taxi. “But my friends your tea has not yet arrived!” Happy (or Kursheed, in his own language) said plaintively. “I’m sure those two will be happy to drink it instead,” I replied, pointing to another couple tourists were being hesitantly ushered through the door by a rickshaw driver. Happy must give out the best coupons.

The pool was filled with curious catfish, like this fellow, and koi
The Sikh temple had a huge shallow pool behind it, with waters that were supposedly holy. Hundreds of Indians were clustered around its edges (it was about half the size of a football field) wading in it, dipping their children in it, or even full on bathing in it. One thing the Sikh guards didn’t like though, were people sitting on its edges…a couple of white robed old fellows with stout staves were making the rounds along the edges of the pool, sharply rapping the marble steps next to anyone like myself who sat down for a second. “Stand up now,” one of them grunted at me, and the other gestured with his staff. Alright then! So we went inside the temple itself (after procuring proper head covering for both Christine and myself; Sikhs might have their turbans but I had my dear, beat up old hat from Jordan – only Christine needed to find a shawl to wrap around her hair). Inside, people were bowing and prostrating themselves before an alter with a man reading a book on it, and then tossing money into a huge long slotted box in front of him. We found out that it was a copy of the Sikh holy book, which is given an entire room to itself when not being displayed (“like a woman,” the young Sikh man who we asked about the curtained room at the corner of the temple told us).

In the center, a turbaned sea monster lurks
Back outside, we had some Prasad, which according to our guidebook and tripadvisor, is well-known throughout Delhi for being particularly tasty at this temple. We each donated 10 rupees to a man behind a counter, received a computer printout with our donation printed on it (it made us briefly nervous that it wasn’t enough, but I craned my neck and saw that most people were donating similar amounts on their own slips), and then gave that slip to another man at another counter, who slopped a brownish paste into a tinfoil cup and handed it to me. Christine and I sat down under a silk awning, surrounded by other diners, and sampled our blessed snack – it was very oily, like a lot of the north Indian food I’ve had so far, I could see the butter/ghee dripping off of every bit I picked up with my fingers. It tasted a bit like popcorn, actually, if the shells and the kernels together had been crushed down to a paste and mixed with oil. It was pretty good, but 10 rupees worth was definitely enough for me!

All we need now is a large coke and “coming soon to theaters near you”
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