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The Personal Blog of Zach Heise

Little Kitten in Panama City
Little Kitten in Panama City

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Category: Britain

  • Stonehenge will remain elusive for now

    All right, Heysham Bike Rentals of Salisbury gets a big red “x” through it in my book. Beastly place. I mean, the £10 bike rental for the day is I guess forgiveable. The beastly little illegible map to stonehenge that they provide to you is tolerable. However, giving a six foot tall man a bike that I could have been riding when I was in middle school is quite unacceptable.

    So I arrive in Salisbury with my friendly British companion, who directs me to towards the shops and Winchester St that the shop is supposed to be on. It is. The bike rental is £10 and the deposit is £25 – doable, yes. Then I ask them if I can have a road bike. They say no, only mountain bikes available. I raise my eyebrows, partly in shock and partly in horror. Biking 11 miles (yes apparently the six miles that the guidebook quotes is wrong) there and then back again? On the wrong side of the road? Helmets are £3 extra? Well, as my parents will no doubt be horrified to know, I took them up on their offer. Stonehenge or bust, I said to myself.

    But then they show me the bicycle, and I swear this thing was last seen being ridden by a midget. It’s a nice bike, to be sure – same shifters as my own bike, good stiff brakes, et cetera…but the thing is dinky. The seat can’t even go up high enough that I can straighten my legs at the downstroke. Wincing though…I take off, their ridiculous map clutched in my hand.

    So I then proceeded to spend the next almost 2 hours biking aimlessly around the Salisbury hills and countryside. I do have to say, every resident is extremely friendly towards me. All of them seem to take pity on the poor tourist (or maybe I’m subtly just choosing all the ones that look the most friendly?) and I’ve asked about 7-8 now “please help me, how do I get to Stonehenge” and they’ve all given me directions that seem well tempered, but they all apply only to their local areas of town and not to the area of stonehenge. After climbing up what felt like a small mountain with a path about 1 foot wide, I decided…you know, Stonehenge has been there for thousands of years…I think it might be able to last another 2 without me. Besides, at that point I still hadn’t eaten, hadn’t used the bathroom and was pretty much going insane. Also, the “need sleep” warning bells are starting good in my head.

    So instead I spent the next 45 minutes to an hour touring the magnificent Chathedral of Salisbury, with the highest spire (404 fee) is the tallest spire in England. It was very pretty, covered in stained glass and matching carvings (the whole thing was only done in 38 years total, in comparison with other cathedrals which took hundreds of years). It was beautiful, and I hope that the pictures turn out all right in the mostly dark area.

    The last thing I saw (but of course was unable to photograph) was one of the original 5 Magna Carta charters that was preserved in the Chapter Hall room. This one was supposedly the best preserved of all the remaining copies. There was a guide touring a group through there at the moment, so I listened a little bit.

    At this point though, I was ready to move onto Bristol and forget my failings in attempting to find Stonehenge. It was a classic, beautiful town though, I thought to myself as I biked back to the rental shop, where they gave me back my deposit and quickly reminded me that there was no refunds even though I was back early.

    Now the trick was to catching the train to Bristol and meeting up with Nathalie. According to my printed schedule, I had about 5 minutes until the train arrived, and I had a length to go that had originally taken 15 to walk before reaching the shop. Finally putting my pack into its intended use as a backpack, I attached the heavy thing as best I could and sprinted the distance as fast as possible, through an outside antique market, and barely made it back in time.

    Onto the last stop of the day: Bristol and Wellington!

  • And the train speeds to Salisbury…

    I’ve arrived in the loverly land of Great Britain! It already seems like a lifetime ago since I heard people speak in the droll midwestern speech that I’m accustomed too and I’m conversing with Brits like they’ve been lifetime chums. Everyone that I’ve met so far on my journey has been wonderful…when was my last entry? Merely a day ago from the Van Galder station?

    I first met a chap on the bus to O’Hare itself, he and I chatted on the way to the airport. He was also a student at UW-Madison (since the bus came from there first and merely passed through Janesville on the way to Chicago) but he had just graduated with a Master’s Degree in music theory the day before and was on his way back home. He even knew my teaching assistant from my choir class last semester, they had been office neighbours!

    The arrival at O’Hare was amazingly uneventful. What with announcements of “The Threat Level has been raised to Orange, be on your guard” coming every five minutes or so, I was half-expecting crazed nuts to leap out from pizza stands in the airport. Certainly I was nervous when it came time for me to have the TSA go through my luggage upon entry…I had heard the announcement that all liquids were to follow the “3-1-1 Rule” – you can have all liquids, et cetera in 3 ounce bottles, in a 1 quart bag, and you can only have 1 of those 1 quart bags. That last one was the problem…I had all of my stuff in three separate 1 quart bags, and the line was moving too fast for me to get out of it and dig around and change things around. With a low sense of dread and already feeling the thick meaty arms of security guards wrestling me to the ground and snapping the cuffs on me, I approached the checkpoint like a condemned man.

    Of course, they didn’t even ask. Bored, they asked me to put the laptop in a separate bin and waved me through. I didn’t even set off the metal detector – a first for me because I’m usually covered in electronics and I often forget some of them the first time through and it requires the unpleasant ringing of the alarm and the tensing of everyone around me to jolt me into “remembering.” My heart was still beating pretty fast. Maybe that was just the copious amounts of caffeine I was already consuming, though.

    I spent the next 4 hours sitting in the Air Canada terminal, with people around me speaking french and the sound of wheeled bags clicking around me. Me being a dumb American, I didn’t even realize until later that my transfer flight, through Montreal, was a french-speaking flight since (and I didn’t know this) Montreal is in Quebec. I spent my time on Facebook, of course, and randomly messaging people with “I’m in an airport!” – it was worth the $6.95 wireless charge in the concourse.

    My first flight, from O’Hare to Montreal was great. I had a window seat in our tiny little airbus, and met the first of my series of seatmates. An older gentlemen named Bob was my companion, very important looking with a blackberry beeping next to him as I took my seat (climbing over the poor guy)…of course, I’m always filled with questions, so we struck up a conversation as the plane meandered about the runways. As it turns out, he is the vice president of a dental equipment manufacturing firm out of Hellsinki, the American branch. We chatted about cars and technology and about life in general, about me being a student and his daughter just graduating from college. When he found out I worked in technology but was also a legal studies major, he encouraged me to become a “software lawyer” and work on copyright cases. I never actually did think of that before.

    However, I was growing increasingly nervous about the time coming up. My flight to London was supposed to take off at 7:45, and with this 1 hour time change, I only had an hour between flights. However, when we got there, Bob directed me and another woman (heading to Paris with a a flight at the same time) to an agent, who was actually waiting for us both (how kind!) to take us directly to our flights. I got there with 10 minutes to spare. So far so good.

    My overnight flight was a lot of fun. My seatmate, a chap named Jesse, was good conversation – we chatted about politics and video games and my work with the Madison antiwar group. The movie Eragon was playing on the tiny little LCD 5 rows ahead, so when I should have been sleeping, I couldn’t help myself – I watched that instead. Meanwhile, Jesse’s headrest on the seat kept snapping off, and we stared at it in bewilderment. High quality stuff, indeed!

    As the sunlight started to stream into the cabin, I realized that I had only gotten about an hour of sleep after the movie. No matter, right – that’s what expresso is for! We had even arrived an hour earlier at Heathrow than expected, at 7:00 instead of 7:30 – however, that extra half hour was rapidly eaten up by the long, long line at the passport check-in. That took about 45 minutes in itself. I struck up a chat with the British custom’s official, who was a little skeptical about my claims of “backpacking around England, staying at hostels” and not knowing the address of the place I was staying tonight, my first night. I assured him that it was a friend’s place in Wellington, and he relaxed. I was here! I was in London at last!

    Or at least somewhere. After wandering around in the miles of tunnels leading into the tube stations and getting a ticket for “Waterloo Station” (£4) I spent the next hour watching in desperation as the various stops on my printed page for Waterloo-Salisbury became invalid. It seemed I must have picked the slowest tube car in London. I chatted with a group of English teens, about my age…I loved the accents. I loved everything. I loved the clothes, the hair…I felt positively old fashioned and it was so bizarre that I loved it anyway. Pants are really tight here, on both genders. That was unexpected. Hair is gelled and slicked and people my age seem to be pierced by default. Or maybe that’s just London…who knows yet!

    After finally manouvering my way into Waterloo Station (and getting coffee at a ubiquitous Starbucks, for which I shamed myself repeatedly) I made it to my 9:50 train to Salisbury. These trains seem to be a work of art. They’re clean, plush seats, smooth transit (my coffee is barely rippling as I type this) and smell like flowers and happy things. I mean, not to mention the amazingness of trains that go everywhere in a country, with no hassle! I guess that’s another definite advantage of a country the size of my home state.

    I struck up a conversation with a fellow sitting next to me on the train, with whom I talked politics, showed some photos on the laptop, and got some more terms down. He showed me how to use my cell phone (which is somehow working over here without me doing anything, but I can only shudder at how much this is probably going to cost me at some dire point in the future) to call Brit mobile numbers. Eventually I had to back off with my questions and let the gentleman get some work done!

    Definitely going to put the laptop away now and keep enjoying the beautiful scenery. There’s something both home-like and alien about it at the same time. The rolling hills and green fields remind me of northern Wisconsin, but the trees (poplars, the gentleman told me) are essentially nonexistent in my region. The roofs of the buildings are tile, not shingles and the chimneys really are like something out of a movie…rows and rows of them stretching far off into the distance whenever we speed through a town. I can almost see Dick van Dyke dancing on top of them with a sweep brush.

    Well, my train is supposed to arrive in another 20 minutes at Salisbury station, so here it goes! My first day in the Queen’s Country is off to a jolly ol’ start!

  • And here I am, all alone

    My first solo international trip. Mom just dropped me off at the
    Janesville Van Galder terminal, for my 9:30 AM bus trip to O’Hare. I
    think I’m too nervous…or maybe this is normal? I haven’t flown
    internationally since junior year of high school, but that was with a
    huge group of people. I’ve never flown by myself, much less flown
    internationally. I hope I didn’t forget anything. I hope that they don’t
    make me check both my bags (supposedly, these two that I have shoved the
    next 2.5 weeks of my life into are both small enough to be carried-on)
    and totally muck up my schedule.

    The bus is supposed to get here in about ten minutes or so, and then
    it’s a straight shot to Terminal #2 at Chicago. I feel like I should be
    chugging coffee, to stay awake, to make sure that I don’t overlook
    anything or miss anything important in this, the very first leg of the
    journey!

  • So planning an international trip is difficult…

    I can see why more people don’t do this more often. Besides the whole incredibly expensive thing, even with staying in hostels. After spending pretty much the majority of the entire weekend with my wonderful, amazing, awesome mother helping me out with this stuff, I’m coming to the realization that pretty much the only way that you don’t end spending a fortune when you’re already over there is to bike everywhere and live off of granola bars.

    However, I want this trip to be more than that. It’s not very often that I’m going to be able to work up the gumption to do something like that so I want this to be touristy (because I am a tourist) and see a lot of amazing sights, but I want to eat me some authentic food too. I don’t care if true Brits don’t eat “fish and chips” anymore but eat burgers and fries instead…but at some point, they ate fish and chips, so that’s what I’m going to it. Likewise with haggis. It might scare the hell out of me to look at it, but it’s authentic Scot food, and therefore it’s going to “get inta meh bellah” as Fat Bastard would say. On that subject, I’m sure that you’re summarily executed in Scotland if you even bring up that ridiculous caricature of Scottish culture. Besides, the books I’ve read say “it’s a bit mushy, but delightfully zesty.” – seriously, who can resist a description like that?

    The Isle of Man is starting to tick me off though. With all of their hidden fees and surcharges for just getting to their island, not counting the fact I had to completely modify my return trip to be through Liverpool instead so I could see the home of the Beatles still, the Three Legs of Mann are turning out to be a real hassle. It’s one thing to charge a lot for a service or entry, but it’s another thing to say your ticket is going to be one price, and then tack on a bunch of little ones before you hit the “purchase” button. What do they think they are, an airline?

    I’ve become a member of the International Hostel Association as well though, which should save me 3 {monetary units} whenever I spend a night in one of their associated hostels. It was only 20 bucks for the year too, so I couldn’t really argue with that since it’ll probably save me £40 before my trip is through.

    Also…what gives with Wales?!? Why are there no trains running through you??? This is supposed to be the 21st century; can’t we properly cut some holes through the Cambrian mountains without destroying the natural beauty of it? I mean, some might say that I should have planned the trip otherwise first so that I would have known this, but I was a little surprised to see that in order for me to get to Mount Snowden, the highest point in Wales and England, I would need to pretty much go around the entire country by way of Chester, and then double back in on myself. Sigh…thank goodness for the Britrail “Flexipass” which allows me to get unlimited rail time for a limited number of days so it’s not a big deal, just a little one.

    Now…I don’t want to make it seem like I’m not enjoying the whole process immensely though, or that I’m going deranged here because of all of this. I probably would be if not for the generous help I’m getting in this regard. I hope that when I do this again next year (and you better believe I will) I’ll be a little less helpless and have more time to stay over there. Or who knows…why even leave?

    One week and a day until the show gets started!